The 4 Types of Watch Movements
Before one can understand what makes mechanical watches so desirable, it may be best to see what sets them apart in design terms. Let's start with the four watch movements:
1. Manual - Also known as "the winding watch", this movement uses springs, gears, and cogs to keep time. Manual watches are powered by a winding mainspring that gradually unwinds throughout the day. In order to wind the spring back to its original state, the owner must use the dial to wind it most likely at least once per day, depending on the watch, to ensure accurate time.
2. Automatic - Uses springs, gears, and cogs, and is powered by a winding mainspring as well. However, as noted by it's nickname "The Self-Winding Watch", this movement uses wheels and a freely rotating rotor that winds by spinning as the owner's wrist moves throughout the day. Therefore, unlike the manual movement watch, the automatic must be worn often to keep accurate time without having to wind it manually.
3. Quartz - In 1969, Seiko introduced the quartz movement. This movement is powered by a battery that runs an electrical current through a small piece of quartz crystal. Digital face watches will most likely have a quartz movement.
4. Kinetic - Kinetic watches use a small piece of quartz crystal and a battery for power as with the quartz movements. What makes them a hybrid movement is the kinetic battery is charged by wrist movement as the owner wears the watch and kinetic watches can contain mechanical complications.
Which Movements are Deemed Mechanical?
All movements, except quartz, can boast quite a complex mechanical caliber design due to the intricate cogs, springs, and gears that work together to perform timekeeping and additional functions. As opposed to a quartz or kinetic watch, a strictly mechanical watch must have a traditional dial and a set of hands instead of a digital face. Therefore, for those wanting a digital display, the quartz or a kinetic timepiece is best. For those not wishing to replace batteries, the manual or automatic timepieces will be a better match.
What's So Great about Mechanical Watches?
Collectors tend to conjure an image of a mechanical timepiece in their minds when asked about their favorite watches or their idea of the perfect watch. Perhaps it is the stately design, the lasting durability for generations when properly cared for over the years, the myriad of marveling complications it can contain, or the simple fact that it has no battery to replace. Whatever the individual's logic, mechanical timepieces are as popular today with horology fans as ever before. Plus, the famous probably love them for the same reason as the rest of us. They polish any outfit, and make the wearer look super cool!
Why do they Cost so Much?
Where quartz watches may be comprised of up to 100 pieces, it's hard not to be impressed with the 57 complications in the Vacheron Constantin watch with 2,826 parts! Plus, some luxury brands use unique materials or add jewels to finish the overall aesthetics. The most expensive watch in the world is arguably the Graff Diamonds Hallucination valued at $55 million due to its design that contains 110 carats of rare colored diamonds in a platinum setting. Speaking of the design, luxury mechanical watches can take over a year just to craft the design and three to five years to produce. Hence, between the materials and the production time, luxury mechanical watches can be considerably more expensive.
In the end, the decision between a quartz and a mechanical movement comes down to personal preference on the hands vs. digital display, the allure of the design, whether or not a battery replacement is a concern, and an appreciation for the features each watch offers. But, the sheer intricacy of the luxury models and the longevity factor ensures the mechanical movement timepieces remain the grand champions for collectors around the world. At least with regular maintenance, it is nice to feel confident these works of art we wear on our wrists and hand down to our children and grandchildren are not likely to lose their value any time soon.
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